Multi-Purpose Little Bag

Posted on June 8, 2023 by Web Dev

Multi-Purpose Little Bag

Updated: Jun 8

Debbie Homer demonstrates how to make a perfect Multi-Purpose Little Bag! Join us on Facebook to see the video on how to make a bag to hold your credit card, phone, Lysol wipes, and attach your hand sanitizer, too!

Want to know how to make it? Watch the video below for the little bag!

https://youtu.be/WiwXFaH8ZjU

Want to make the sanitizer holder? Here’s the video for that too!

https://youtu.be/aP3DQWSq-G4

Supply list

(1) 2” x 8” Fabric (top of zipper panel)

(1) 2” x 8” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 2” x 8” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 8” Fabric (lower panel of zipper)

(1) 8” x 8” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 8” x 8” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 9” Fabric (back)

(1) 8” x 9” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 8” x 9” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 8” Fabric (cell phone pocket)

(1) 4” x 4” Sew Fab Foam – fuse to have of 8” x 8” fabric

(1) 5” x 6” Fabric (credit card pocket)

(1) 5” x 6” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 5” x 6” fabric

(1) 2” x 36” Fabric (handle)

(1) 9” zipper

(2) rings

Instructions

Fuse all Dream Weave and Sew Fab Foam pieces to wrong side of fabric.

Sew right side of zipper to right side of top panel fabric using zipper foot.

Sew other side of zipper right side to right side of bottom panel Fabric

Press along fabric and zipper edge making it lay flat

Topstitch on each edge of and fabric.

Fold credit card pocket in half so it now measures 2 ½ x 6”, sew across the top edge right sides together the 2 ½ “ edge ¼” seam allowance, turn and press.

Topstitch across the 2 ½” edge, place in corner of front fabric matching raw edges, pin into place, sew down the 6” edge of where the fabric was folded, leaving raw edges pinned.

Fold Cell phone pocket in half right side of fabric on outside, topstitch across the folded edge.

Place cell phone pocket onto back fabric on lower bottom, pin into place.

Take 2” x 36” handle piece, I would measure yourself first to see if that is long enough to do cross body or shoulder strap.

Run thru bias tape maker then fold in half and press, sew down each edge and down the center.

Cut off 5” and then cut the 5” piece in half this is your straps for your rings.

Place each 2 ½” strip into each ring fold fabric piece in half and pin on each one.

Place onto front bag ½” in from each side and pin.

Place bag front and back bag piece right sides together and pin into place.

OPEN ZIPPER TO MIDDLE

Don’t forget to open zipper, sew around all edges width of foot back tac over zipper on each side to reinforce.

Open zipper the rest of the way and turn right side out and press.

Place handle strip into each ring and sew across edge.

Clarrisa’s Corner June 22

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Clarrisa’s Corner June 22

This week on Clarrisa’s Corner, join Clarrisa Gossett as she walks us through creating these fun placemats!

Tutorial: Fabric Tray

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Tutorial: Fabric Tray

Updated: Jun 16

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and today’s project is made with two squares of fabric and a special interlining material that gives it structure. This simple fabric tray is easy to sew and can be used to hold jewelry, bath items, loose change and almost any small items that need a home. I’m using mine to corral my favorite fabric paints that I use to embellish fabric and projects.

Supplies

Outer fabric: 11” square of quilting cotton

Inner fabric: 11” square of quilting cotton

10” square of Dec-Magic Fusible Non-Woven Interfacing

Open Embroidery Foot

Select Self Erase Marker

RNK Precision Turning Tool

Deco-Magic

The secret to the shape of this tray is the interlining material that gives it body and shape. This unique leather- like product is flexible and makes it easy to shape your fabric into projects such as purses, belts, hats, fabric boxes, etc. The fusible adhesive on Deco-Magic creates a permanent bond to the fabric and is needle friendly so you can stitch through it to embellish your fabric if desired.

Place the Deco-Magic square in the center of the wrong side of the outer fabric. You should have a ½” seam allowance extending beyond the Deco-Magic on all four sides. Tip: Cut your inner and outer fabric squares slightly larger than 11” and once you fuse the Deco-Magic in place, you can trim the excess fabric edges away, leaving a precise ½” extending beyond the Deco-Magic. There are two weights of Deco-Magic, I used the heavier one (still flexible) but if you need something a bit softer, try Deco-Magic Lite.

Stitching the Fabrics

Place the inner fabric with right sides together to the fused outer fabric. Stitch along all four sides, just out the Deco-Magic square. Leave a 5”-6” opening along one side. Tip: Place the edge of the Deco-Magic next to the inside toe of the presser foot. Move the needle position to the far right. The needle will drop on the fabric, making it easy to stitch along the edges of the interlining.

Turning the fabric

Trim each corner to reduce the bulk. Turn the fabric to the right side. It may seem a bit stiff but just turn it until it is right out.

Square Corners

I used the RNK Point Turner to push out the corners to make them square. The small round ball on the end lets you get into the point of the corner without punching through the fabric.

Edgestitching

Once the fabric is right side out, edgestitch along all four sides, closing the opening in the process. Guide the fabric in the same way as you did when stitching the fabric pieces together, using the inside toe of the foot as a guide.

Marking

Measure 1 ½” from one side and draw a line using a fabric marker. Repeat for the remaining three sides. I used the Quilters Select Self-Erase Marker. It is air-soluble and will fade in 1-2 days.

Stitching the Base

Fold one side to the toward the inner fabric along the marked line. Edgestitch the fold, starting 1 ½” from the outer edge of the fabric (the marked line) and stopping 1 ½” from the opposite edge (the marked line). Repeat for the remaining three sides.

Stitching the Corners

Fold one corner flat to form a point (as shown in the photo above), matching the marked lines. Stitch straight down (this will be along the marked line on the inner fabric) to the corner of the base. Repeat with the remaining three corners.

Optional Corner Finish

You can leave the tray as is with the extending triangle at each corner. I chose to flatten the triangles, pushing them to the corner of the tray, using fabric glue to hold them in place.

Embroidery Stabilizers for Beginners

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 27, 2023 by Web Dev

Embroidery Stabilizers for Beginners

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and today we’re talking about stabilizer basics. Embroidery stabilizers are a key element in machine embroidery. They provide a firm foundation that can support the thread that is used to create the design being stitched. Without them, the fabric would be puckered around the design once it is un-hooped, and the stabilizer is removed. I’m going to start with my three go-to stabilizers that are good to always have on hand. Here are three stabilizers I use on a regular basis. I have other stabilizers that are more specialized for specific embroidery situations, but these are my every day, mainstream, often-used stabilizers that I make sure that I am never without. These three stabilizers are great to start with if you are new to machine embroidery.

Embellish Soft Cutaway

Most cutaway stabilizers are stiff with a lot of body. This may be useful if you need some structure in your project. But there are times when I want the support of a cutaway but without the stiffness and this soft cutaway is perfect for that. It is very stable with no stretch in any direction. After stitching, trim away the stabilizer, leaving about ¼” around the design. The rest of the stabilizer remains behind the stitched design.

Floriani Medium Tearaway

I like this stabilizer because it works for most projects that need a tearaway stabilizer. Crisp, but not stiff, it tears easily and cleanly away from the stitching. Tearaway is similar to cutaway but is more paper-like and tears easily. If using more than one layer of tearaway, it is best to remove the layers one at a time.

Floriani Water Soluble Topping

A great stabilizer to use when you are stitching terrycloth, velvet, or other textured fabrics. An easy way to keep this in place on top of your hooped fabric is to wet the corners of the topping and then stick them to the fabric in the hoop. Typically, toppings are a film or mesh that dissolves with water. After stitching, trim the excess stabilizer from around the design and then rinse the project until the stabilizer completely is dissolved.

Six Embroidery Stabilizer Facts and Tips

Before the home embroidery machine came about, stabilizers were used by commercial embroiderers. They were called backings because the majority of stabilizers are placed on the back of the fabric. The term used by the home machine embroidery industry is stabilizer.

Determining the type of stabilizer and the amount your project requires takes some testing using your project fabric with a variety of stabilizers until you find the stabilizer for that works best for your project. The more you work with stabilizers, the more intuitive it becomes.

The only hard and fast stabilizer rule is that knit fabrics, including t-shirts and sweatshirts, require cutaway stabilizers. It provides a very stable foundation for stitching. Woven fabric may use a variety of stabilizer types, depending on the fabric and the project.

Use commercial quality stabilizers made by reputable embroidery companies. These stabilizers contain silicone, which lubricates the needle as you sew, reducing the wear and tear on the needle and the machine. Substitutes such as paper, coffee filters, freezer paper, etc. are not recommended as they may contain other materials such as cellulose (wood pulp) that can be harmful to your machine.

When stitching a fabric that has a nap or pile to it such as velvet, terry cloth, or corduroy, you will need the stabilizer behind the fabric plus an additional stabilizer on the surface of the fabric. Called a topping, this stabilizer keeps the stitches from sinking into the loops of the fabric. These work with fabrics that can handle moisture and dampness because toppings are water soluble so they can be completely removed after your stitching is complete.

The last five tips have been referring to using stabilizers for machine embroidery, but another use is with your sewing machine for decorative stitching. It keeps your fabric nice and flat with no puckering or tunneling as you stitch. It goes behind the fabric, the same as for embroidery and can be removed by tearing or cutting it away, depending on they type you are using.

Crazy Quilting

Posted on June 8, 2023 by Web Dev

Crazy Quilting

This week on Clarrisa’s Corner, Clarrisa Gossett is walking you through crazy quilting in the hoop.

Stitch by Stitch

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Stitch by Stitch

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com. I don’t know about you, but I love sewing machine stitches! Today’s machines have hundreds (or more) stitches in a variety of styles – florals, geometrics, cross stitches, abstract designs, and more. I also love making mini art quilts. In today’s post, I am combining the two with a simple mini art quilt that showcases some of my favorite stitch patterns. The finished size of this mini art quilt is 14” x 7”.

Supplies

Quilt Top: 15” x 8” rectangle of quilting cotton

Backing: 15” x 8” rectangle of quilting cotton

Batting: 15” x 8” rectangle of Embellish Premium Fusible Batting

Stitched Strips: 8-10 strips 1” x 8” quilting cotton in a solid or subtle print that contrasts with the quilt fabric

Stabilizer: Floriani Medium Weight Tear Away

Needle: Universal 80/12

Floriani 40-wt embroidery thread for quilting the quilt top and couching the edging

Edge Finish: 2 ½–3 yards of textured yarn

Presser Feet:

Free-motion Presser Foot for quilting

Open Embroidery Foot for decorative stitching and couching

Batting

Place the Embellish Premium Fusible Batting with the non-fusible side facing the wrong side of the quilt top. I used Embellish Premium Fusible Batting. I did not fuse the batting to the quilt top. As you stitch, the fabric will shift slightly, creating small bubble and puckers in your fabric for a textured look.

Quilting

Using the free-motion presser foot, meander over the surface of the fabric until it is completely quilted. I randomly covered the fabric with loops circles, and curved lines. My intent with this type of stitching is to create texture on the fabric, so you can be as free as you like with your fabric movement. It doesn’t have to be award-winning stippling or perfect free-motion stitches. What you want is a pebbly surface on your quilt. After quilting, trim the quilt top to 14” X 7”. Once it is stitched, set it aside. Note: You are quilting through the top fabric and the batting only. The backing will be added after the decorative stitches are sewn to the quilt top.

Decorative Stitching

Place stabilizer behind one strip and select a decorative stitch of your choice. Sew down the middle of the strip. Tear away the excess stabilizer from the wrong side of the strip. Repeat with the remaining strips, trimming them to various lengths.

Raw Edge Appliqué

Arrange the decorative stitch strips as desired using the photos as guide. Stitch along all four edges of the strips to hold them in place.

Stitch by Stitch

Position the label on the quilt and stitch or glue in place. Place the decorative button on the label and stitch it be hand or machine.

Finishing

Trim the backing fabric to match the quilt top. Place the backing right side out behind the quilt top and fuse it in place. Cut the yarn into two pieces. Starting on the lower edge, place the two pieces of yarn along the edges and sew it to the quilt using a zigzag stitch. Set the stitch width wide enough to stitch into the quilt and over the yarn. Stitch the yarn along all four edges, overlapping the edges and backstitching to secure it.

Textured Technique

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Textured Technique

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and today’s post is about creating texture with your sewing machine. There are so many things that I love about sewing. I see beauty in the fabric, the colors, the stitches, but one thing I am especially drawn to is texture. Heavy stitching, raised pintucks, free-motion stitching, gathered edges, pleated panels – there are so many ways to create texture with fabric, needle, and thread. When I was in college, I went to my first textile art exhibit. My favorite display was a variety of art pieces created with a technique called “stitch and slash”. It was a simple technique of stacking several layers of fabric, and then sewing a series of straight stitched lines through all of the layers. Next, the fabric was cut between the lines of stitching, through all of the fabrics except the lowest layer. Today we know this technique as “chenille”. The rough edges of the cut fabric ravel and fray to create a soft, random pile of texture. This technique can be used on pillows, art quilts, jackets, tote bags, zippered pouches, and really just about anywhere you want some beautiful texture. The supplies I used are listed below – continue reading for additional info on the supplies.

Supplies

3-6 layers of fabric – I cut 8” squares but it totally depends on how you plan to use it
40-wt or 50-wt thread – color of your choice
All-purpose presser foot
Embellish Comfort-Grip Chenille Cutter
Firm toothbrush or wire brush
Quilting clips

Selecting

The first thing to do for the chenille technique is to select your fabrics. It works best when using soft cotton fabrics, lightweight fabrics, cotton flannel, and/or loosely woven fabrics. Do not use synthetics or knit fabrics as they do not ravel well. I usually use 3-6 layers, including the base layer. The fabrics I used here are all quilting cottons except for the base layer. It is a lightweight denim. Stack them all right side up for stitching. You may want to use clips to hold the layers in place as you begin to sew. A size 90/14 Universal needle works well for this type of sewing. Do a stitch test to make sure the needle works well with your layered fabric. Use a typical 40-wt or 50-wt thread. Polyester, cotton, or a blend of the two are all good choices. The color doesn’t really matter because it usually does not show in the finished technique.

Stitching

Set your machine for a straight stitch and attach your favorite all-purpose presser foot. The spacing between the lines of stitching is up to you. The base of the Embellish Comfort-Grip Chenille Cutter is about ¼” so I would suggest you space the stitching at least 3/8” apart. I almost always use the side of my presser foot as a spacing guide, but I move my needle all the way over to the right. This gives me a space that is a bit wider than ½”, making it easier to insert the guide of the cutter into the channel between the stitching lines.

Cutting

Once you have finished the stitching, it is time to cut, which is where the magic starts. When I first learned this technique, the cutting was done with a pair of scissors. To be truthful, it was a bit tedious and not much fun. However, today we have more choices for cutting. I use Embellish Comfort-Grip Chenille Cutter. It makes it so easy and quick to slice through all those layers and there are two interchangeable guides – one for straight lines and one for curves. You want to slice through all of the layers except the bottom one (base). This cutter is designed to protect the lower layer, so you don’t accidentally cut through it. Use the following steps to slash the fabrics with the cutter.

Hold one hand firmly on the fabric.
With your other hand, insert the guide of the cutter between the base fabric and the upper layers.
Push down and advance the cutter forward using a lot of force to start cutting. If you have trouble starting the cut, use scissors to cut into the fabric layers about ½”-1” at the beginning.

Brushing

Here’s where the real magic happens. Using a firm toothbrush or a wire brush, scour over the cut edges in all directions, making the fabrics stand up. Brushing in a circular motion is a gray way to help create the chenille look. This frays the edges, creating more texture. If you spray the fabric surface before you brush, it helps create more texture. Washing the chenille piece will also create more texture.

Clarrisa’s Corner May 11

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Clarrisa’s Corner May 11

Updated: Jun 8

Secret Embroidery Ingredient #2

Four Ways to Use Lightweight Sewing Thread

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

Four Ways to Use Lightweight Sewing Thread

Updated: Jun 8

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and in this post, I want to explore the use of lightweight thread. As a point of reference, let’s talk about the weights we usually use for general sewing. Typically, we sew with 40-wt and 50-wt thread for seaming, piecing, topstitching, quilting – all the techniques we typically sew. And if you are an embroiderer, you probably use 40-wt. embroidery thread, which is what most digitizers have in mind when creating their designs.

What I consider to be lightweight are threads such 60-wt and 80-wt. Remember, the higher the number, the finer the thread. (It seems counter-intuitive but that’s the way it is.) Even though these threads are not ones we use every day, there are some sewing situations where they are the best choice. I use Quilters Select threads – the 60 weight is 100% cotton, 2 ply and the 80 weight is a para-cotton-poly, 2 ply thread. There are many ways to use these threads and here are four ways I use them.

Bobbin Thread

If you are sewing a satin stitch (a zigzag with a short stitch length) or heavy decorative stitches such as the ones shown below, you may use a lightweight thread in your bobbin. This keeps the thread build-up on the back of your fabric to a minimum. You may need to adjust your tension settings slightly to balance the two threads. If you see the bobbin thread being pulled to the top of your fabric, decrease the needle tension by small increments until the bobbin thread is not showing on the right side of the fabric. I used 60-wt cotton thread in the bobbin and Floriani 40-wt embroidery in the needle when sewing the stitches shown below.

If your machine accepts pre-wound bobbins (typically for quilting or embroidery), then you should take a look at the Quilters Select pre-wound bobbins. The 80wt Para-Cotton-Poly thread comes wound on Class 15 and size L bobbins in three sets of 40 bobbins each (check your machine manual to see what bobbin size your machine requires). One set has multi-color bobbins, another, all black and white and a third is a range of neutral colors.

Invisible Appliqué

This technique is a perfect place to use lightweight thread. Use a color that blends or matches your appliqué shape. Sewn with a tiny blindstitch, the 80-wt and 60-wt threads melt into the fabric and disappear (almost). The appliqué shape below has been stitched with 80-wt thread in both the needle and bobbin, but it may be hard to see in the photo below. But isn’t that the whole point of invisible appliqué?

Stitch-in-the-Ditch

Stitching in the ditch is a quilting technique that inconspicuously holds your quilt layers together. You follow the seam lines of the pieced blocks of your quilt, and all-in-all, it’s a straightforward process. However, if you are not paying attention, your stitching may not stay in the ditch. Using a lightweight thread in a matching or blended color can help it sink into the ditch and if you occasionally miss, the thread is less visible on the fabric.

To learn more from and about Susan Beck, visit SewFeet.com. Happy Stitching!

The Why and How of 12 Weight Thread

Posted on June 8, 2023, updated on September 29, 2023 by Web Dev

The Why and How of 12 Weight Thread

Updated: Jun 8

I love taking plain fabric and elevating the look of it with colorful thread work. Hi, I’m Susan with sewfeet.com and in today’s post I’m going to share an easy fabric embellishment that has a lot of impact, simply because I didn’t use “normal” sewing thread. What I used was Floriani 12-weight polyester embroidery thread in the needle and Quilters Select 80 weight cotton polyester thread in the bobbin. Keep reading for tips on using these two threads together to add a layer of color and texture over the surface of your fabric.

Thread

If you compare the 12-weight polyester embroidery thread to typical sewing/embroidery threads, which are 40 to 50 weights, you’ll see that the 12-weight is much thicker and gives you bolder stitches that will be more prominent on your fabric. The 80-weight bobbin thread is a very lightweight thread that is made with a mix of cotton and polyester. The lighter weight bobbin thread reduces the build-up of heavy thread on the back of your fabric and creates seams that are flatter than if you were using a heavier thread in the bobbin. The photo below shows these two threads side by side so you can see the difference in their weights.

Needle Options

When using a 12-weight thread, you definitely need to use an appropriate needle. I like to use a topstitch needle because the eye is elongated, and the heavier thread can easily move through it with little stress as you stitch. The size of the needle should be 90/14 or 100/16. Using a size smaller than these results in frayed and/or broken threads.

Presser Foot

The thing to consider when you are selecting a presser foot for stitching with 12-weight thread is the sole of the foot. There must be room for the heavy thread to easily move under the foot without dragging, which can cause distorted or malformed stitches. An open embroidery foot is a good choice because it has a wide indentation on the sole, so the thread moves easily under it. An all-purpose foot has a sole that is almost flat so the 12-weight thread would not have room to move smoothly under it.

Thread Tension

When sewing with 12-weight thread, you need to consider the thread tension. Because of the disparity of the thread weights, you may have to make a needle tension adjustment to balance the stitch. If you see the bobbin thread showing on the top of the fabric (usually looks like a series of dots), it means the needle thread tension is pulling it up because it is too tight. The needle tension should be decreased (lower number) until the bobbin thread no longer shows on top of the fabric. If the needle thread shown on the bottom fabric, then increase the needle thread tension (higher number) until the stitch is balanced, which means the two threads meet in the middle between the two layers of fabric. Some computerized sewing machines automatically adjusts the tension to suit the thickness of your thread.

Stitching The Fabric

Before stitching, make sure your fabric is well-stabilized. You can use fusible interfacing and/or a removeable stabilizer. Sew a few test lines of stitches to see what works best for your fabric. This embellishment is very simple – all straight stitching. What makes it special is that it is made up of four sets of evenly spaced lines. The first two are vertical and horizontal lines spaced 1” apart to form a square grid. You can mark the lines on the fabric and then stitch over them. Or you can eliminate the marking and use a seam guide attached to your presser foot. Because the 12-weight thread is thick, you may want to lengthen the stitch length to 3 mm-3.5 mm. The gives the stitches more definition and lets them lay flat instead of bunching together.

Extra Embellishment

Here’s an extra embellishment for this fabric. It’s a little time consuming but I love it! Once your grids are stitched, sew a mini button at each of the intersections. Full disclosure: These buttons are not sewn on. I was playing around with the buttons and took a photo to show you how cute it is!