Pencil Pouch

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Pencil Pouch

We are wrapping up Back to School week and we are so excited to share this project by Clarrisa! Follow the instructions below!

Supplies:

  • 1/3 Yard of main fabric (if you choose to embroider or ¼ yard if your aren’t embroidering)

  • Scraps of fabric if you choose to do an applique

  • 2 pieces RNK Sew Fab Foam 5 ½”x11 ½”

  • 12” Zipper

  • Standard Sewing thread to coordinate with main fabric

  • Floriani Embroidery Thread if you choose to embroider

  • Quilter’s Select Glue Stick

  • RNK Turning tool

  • 2 pieces Floriani Heat n Sta 10”x13” if you choose to embroider

Cutting:

  • Two pieces of main fabric 10”x13” if you choose to embroider front and back

  • Two pieces of main fabric 5 ½”x11 ½” if you’re not embroidering

Embroidery: (optional)


1. Fuse one Heat n Sta 10”x13” piece to back of one piece of the main fabric and hoop in

5”x7” hoop (130x180mm)

2. Prepare your embroidery design. I used a free design from Floriani Total Control, April

2018 and added lettering using the “Child’s Play” font spelling out “Writing Tools”. On

the back I used the same font and put the child’s name.

3. Following color changes and applique technique, stitch out design.

4. BEFORE YOU REMOVE FROM HOOP, using the marks on your hoop, mark with small

marks the vertical and horizontal centers on the main fabric. Remove from hoop.

5. Remove Heat n Sta.

6. Press from the back side. If you press from the front use a pressing cloth.

7. Using the vertical and horizontal marks on the main fabric, cut piece to measure 5 ½”x11

½”. Measure 2 ¾” on both sides of the vertical center to know where to cut. Likewise,

measure 5 ¾” on both sides of the horizontal center to know where to cut.

8. Repeat above process if you choose to embroider on the back of the case.


Construction:


1. Fuse RNK Sew Fab Foam to backs of both main fabric 5 ½”x11 ½” pieces. Press from the

fabric side.

2. Using either your sewing machine or serger, edge finish one long edge of each 5 ½”x11

½” piece.

3. Using your Quilter’s Select Glue stick, place glue on one side of the zipper tape. Glue right

sides together (zipper teeth down), ¼” down from long edge of one main piece. The

zipper start will be at the left and the excess zipper will be on the right. See photo

4. Using your zipper foot, stitch zipper to top edge of main piece close to zipper teeth. You

will need to move your needle to the far left.

5. Turn zipper away from main piece. Move zipper foot and needle to opposite side. Edge

stitch along folded edge catching zipper tape edge below. Stitch again ¼” away from

edge stitching this time catching the seam allowance below. See photo

6. Repeat steps 3-5 for opposite side of zipper and remaining main piece. This time you will

be stitching from the excess end of zipper toward zipper pull end.

7. UN-ZIP ZIPPER ABOUT HALF WAY.

8. Folding pieces in half along zipper, place main pieces right sides together and pin.

9. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around the 3 raw edges. Stitch over zipper at both ends

back stitching at both ends. See photo below

10. Trim excess zipper end to about 1”.

11. Edge finish 3 raw edges.

12. Clip both corners at a 45 degree angle.

13. Turn right sides out and push corners out with your RNK turning tool.


Cushy Laptop Sleeve

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Cushy Laptop Sleeve

Clarrisa made another back to school project, and this one may be our favorite! Follow her instructions below to make your own laptop case!

Every laptop is a different size. I will be giving you instructions to measure and create a laptop sleeve for your laptop.


Supplies:

  • Fabric- Generally a ½ yard or less will be sufficient for most laptops. Instructions are below for exact measurement. I used a heavier 45” fabric. Denim or a home decorating fabric would also work well.

  • Sport or Purse zipper- Length will depend on your laptop. Measure the width of your laptop and add 2”. Purchase the closest size with longer being better than shorter.

  • 2 pieces of RNK Sew Fab Foam or Cosplay Super Structure Foam – The size will depend on the size of your laptop. You will cut these pieces the same size as the outside fabric which instructions are below.

  • Standard sewing thread to coordinate with outside fabric.

  • 100/16 chrome denim needle

  • Quilter’s Select Glue Stick

  • Quilter’s Select 6”x24” ruler (if not embroidering)

  • Fabric Marker

  • Quilter’s Pins (usually longer pins)

  • Zipper Foot for your machine

  • Quilting Embroidery Design (optional)

  • Floriani Wet n Stick Stabilizer (optional)

  • Floriani Embroidery thread to coordinate with your fabric (optional)

  • Embroidery Bobbin thread (optional)

Measuring:

1. Measure all the way around the width and length of your laptop. Take a tape measure and

starting somewhere on the top, go all the way around the sides, back and then back to the

top where you began. Do this for both directions of your laptop.

2. Use those measurements, divide in half as we will be making this in 2 pieces and add 2” to

each measurement for seam allowances and a little extra room. My laptop width measured

32” all the way around, divide by 2=16”, add 2”=18”. My laptop height measured 21 ½”

all the way around, divide by 2=10 ¾, add 2”=12 ¾”. DON’T CUT YET. See next step.

See above chart for decimal and inch equivalencies for fabric measurement.

3. We will be quilting the front and back of the sleeve by either embroidering or straight line

quilting. This tends to “draw up” the fabric and Sew Fab Foam so you may lose some of

the width and height of your measurements. As a result we need to cut the fabric and Sew

Fab Foam a little larger and trim to right size when we are done quilting. To the width and

height you need to add 1 ½”. My width measurement ended up being 18” from the

measurement in step 2, add 2”=20”. My height measurement was 12 ¾” from above, add

2”=14 ¾”. I would cut my fabric and Sew Fab Foam, 14 ¾”x20”.

Cutting and Prepare fabric:

1. Cut 2 pieces of your outside fabric the measurements calculated above.

2. Cut 2 pieces of RNK Sew Fab Foam or Cosplay Super Structure Foam the size of the

measurement calculated above.

3. Fuse RNK Sew Fab Foam or Cosplay Super Structure Foam to the back of your Fabric.

Fuse from the fabric side.


Embroidery: (optional)

1. Choose a “quilting” embroidery design. You will use your design to quilt the entire front

and back so it needs to be as big as you can embroider it.

2. In your software, enlarge your design to fit your largest hoop.

3. In Floriani Total Control Software I also took the running stitch that made up my design

and changed the running stitch in the design to a “bean” stitch. A bean stitch repeats

each stitch in odd numbered multiples. Once you have the run stitch in your design

selected, select the “commands” tab in the running stitch property box. It is the tab that

has the running stitch with a plus next to it.


Use the drop down arrow next to “bean style” and select “bean”.Change the repeats to 5 and click “Apply”. Each stitch will now be repeated 5 times. This way you can see the stitching better on a print fabric. Make sure to save your design.


4. I also found it very helpful to baste the fabric/Sew Fab Foam to the stabilizer when I

embroider. Even though the Wet n Stick is very sticky, the Sew Fab Foam wants to lift away

from the stabilizer especially around the edges of the hoop. You can either baste using the

function of your machine or you can add a baste stitch in your software.

It’s very easy in Floriani Total Control to add a baste stitch.


· Select the “Program Preferences” icon on the top tool bar.

· Select the “Auto Baste” tab. Make any adjustments you want to your baste stitch. You can

choose to add cross hairs to mark centers, adjust the stitch length and adjust how far away

from your design you want to baste. If you have resized your design to fit your hoop you

would set the “baste past outer edge of design” to zero.

· Go to “tools” in the upper left corner and select “Auto Baste”. A basting stitch will

automatically be added around your design with your settings made in program

preferences.


5. On the side with the Sew Fab Foam or Cosplay Super Structure Foam, mark a vertical and

horizontal center on both of your fabric/Sew Fab Foam pieces. (backside)

6. Hoop a piece of Floriani Wet n Stick stabilizer glue side up. The glue side is the rough

side. Dampen the glue with a little water and spread the water around until the surface

becomes sticky. Don’t use too much water or it won’t stick.

7. Fold one fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece on either the marked vertical or horizontal line on

the back and hold over the Wet n Stick. Using the marks on your hoop and the marks on

the back of your fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece, match the vertical and horizontal centers and

stick your piece down. It doesn’t have to be perfect as you have a little wiggle room

because you cut your piece a little larger.

8. Baste the fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece to the stabilizer and embroider your design.

9. Measure the width and length of the box created by basting and mark the centers each

direction. The width on my basting measured 14” so 7” would be the center. Remove

from hoop.

10. Trim all thread tails and jump stitches on the back. Dampen the back to loosen the glue of the Wet n Stick and tear away the Wet n Stick.

11. Repeat for other fabric/Sew fab Foam piece.

Straight Line Quilting: (if you aren’t embroidering)

1. Place the Quilter’s Select ruler 45 degree angle marking on one straight edge of one of the fabric/Sew Fab Foam pieces.


1. Using your fabric marker, mark a line at the 45 degree angle on your piece.

2. Move the ruler 2” away and mark again. Continue making marks 2” apart on the entire

piece.

3. Turn the ruler and fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece and mark a 45 degree angle in the opposite

direction. Continue making marks 2” apart going the opposite direction on the entire

piece.

4. Using a Standard Sewing thread, stitch on marked lines.

5. Repeat for other fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece.


Cut Fabric/Sew Fab Foam pieces to size:

1. Fold each fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece in half horizontally and vertically and mark centers

with small marks. Mark at both ends of the horizontal and vertical centers.

2. Measure to the left or right of the vertical center marks, half the distance of your finished

width measurement. My width measurement is 18” (Step 2 in the measurement section

above) finished so I would measure 9” from the center and cut. Measure over 9” the other

direction and cut again. You have an 18” wide piece. Repeat for the other direction.

3. Use a round object as a template to cut the curves on all 4 corners. I used a cone spool.

Find something round to trace that isn’t too large. Place the round object in a corner, trace

the curve and cut out the curve. Repeat for all corners on both pieces.


Zipper:

1. Fold zipper in half matching the top and

bottom zipper stops. Mark the center

on both zipper tapes.

2. Using your Quilter’s Select Glue Stick,

run a line of glue on one half of the top

edge of one of the fabric/Sew Fab

Foam pieces. Matching the marked

centers of the zipper and fabric/Sew

Fab Foam piece, glue one half of the

zipper to the top edge, right sides

together.

3. To glue the zipper around the curved

end of the fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece

you will need to clip the zipper tape

about ¼” deep at the curve about every

½”. Don’t clip too deep!


Glue zipper around curve. Repeat and glue other half of the zipper to the top edge.

4. Attach the zipper foot to your machine in the right position. Place the needle in the far left position.


5. Thread your machine with the Standard

Sewing Thread and insert a 100/16

denim chrome needle.

6. Stitch your zipper to the top edge of

the fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece. The

edge of your zipper foot will be right

next to the zipper teeth. Begin and end stitching at the zipper stops. Leave the zipper

tape at the beginning and ending unstitched. If the zipper pull gets in the way, move it

away from where you are stitching.

7. Select a zig zag and widen to the widest setting. Edge finish where you stitched the zipper.

8. Clip “V” shaped clips around the curve where you clipped previously.



9. Move zipper foot to the left position and the needle to the far right position. If your machine has a “needle down” setting, set your needle to stop in the down position.

10. Turn zipper away from the fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece and fold the seam allowance toward the fabric/Sew Fab Foam piece. Edge stitch where the fabric/Sew Fab Foam is folded.



Take your time around the corners. Take a few stitches and then push the fabric/Sew Fab Foam away from zipper and stitch again.

11. Repeat steps 2-10 for the other side of the zipper. This side may be a little trickier as you

have the first piece attached. Take your time. You will work with the first piece with the

zipper attached, on top, right side down and the unstitched piece on the bottom right

side up.


Construction:

1. UNZIP ZIPPER about half way.

2. Place both fabric/Sew Fab Foam pieces right sides together. Line up edges and pin

together using the long Quilting pins.

3. Attach a standard stitching foot. Using a ½” seam allowance, begin stitching at the center

bottom. Stitch around the corner toward the zipper stop. Turn excess zipper tape at zipper

stop away from the fabric/Sew Fab Foam pieces and stitch as close as possible to where

the zipper was originally stitched in. Backstitch. Your stitching will end about ¼” away from

the original zipper stitching. Repeat for other side.

4. Using a wide zig zag, edge stitch around entire raw edge.

5. Clip “V” shapes in bottom 2 corners.

6. Turn right sides out through the open zipper.

7. Press stitched edges flat.

Notebook Cover

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Notebook Cover

It’s back to school week part 2, and we are in LOVE with this new project! Have you ever thought about up-scaling your notebook or binder?! Clarrisa made this amazing project, just for you!

Below are instructions for a cover for a standard 3 ring binder with a 1 ½” depth. I have also given you instructions on how to measure for any book or notebook.


Supplies: For a standard 3 ring binder, 1 ½” depth. Below you find instructions for calculating fabric for another book or notebook.

3/8 yard of fabric for outer cover

3/8 yard of fabric for lining

Piece of Floriani Heat n Sta Fleece 12 3/4”x23”

2 1/8 yards of premade piping or 2 1/8 yards of cord to make your own piping. You will also need 2 1/8 yards of extra wide double fold bias tape if you are going to make your own piping. It’s also really helpful to use a tool to cut the seam allowance of the piping. (Optional)


Here is a link to purchase one: https://shop.farmhousefabrics.com/stores_app/Browse_Item_Details_side2.asp?Shopper_id=7167911154716&Store_id=198&page_id=23&Item_ID=17700&Name=Groovin%92-Piping-Trimming-Tool—Grande,-For-Cordin


Standard Sewing thread to coordinate with the piping color and the cover fabric.

RNK Turning Tool

If you choose to embroider-

· An embroidery design of your choice. I created the design on my cover in Floriani Total Control Software

· Floriani Wet n Stick to fit your hoop

· A piece of Floriani Tear Away to float under your hoop if your design is more than 10,000 stitches

· A piece of Floriani Heat n Gone topper to cover design

· A piece of Floriani Now Show Fusible Mesh slightly larger than your design

· Floriani Embroidery thread for your design

· Quilters Select Self Erase Marker

Measure your Binder, Book or Notebook:

1. Measure the cover of the item you want to cover. Measure from the back edge of the cover, across the spine and to the edge of the front cover.

2. My binder measures 21 ½”. Add 1 ½” and cut the width 23”. This allows for seam allowances and a little give when the binder closes.


3. For the height, of course measure the height of the item you want to cover and add 1 ¼”.My binder measures 11 ½” Add 1 ¼” and cut the height 12¾”




4. The Heat n Sta Fusible fleece lines the cover so I will cut the cover fabric and the fleece 23”x12 3/4”. That means I need to purchase about 13” of fabric and fleece which is closest to 3/8 of a yard.

3. Do your own calculations and figure the measurements for the item you want to cover. Make sure to add 1 ½”to the width and 1 ¼” to the height.

4. To calculate how much piping you will need, use the total measurements of the 4 sides of the cover fabric.

5. The measurements for my binder cover fabric are 71 ½” total around all 4 sides so I need about 1.98 yards. I would round up and get 2 1/8 yards to allow for turning corners and the extra for the beginning and ending of the piping. Measure around your cover fabric and calculate how much piping you will need.

6. We’ll calculate lining measurements after we embroider and prepare the cover.






Embroidery: (optional)

1. The embroidery design on my binder cover was created in Floriani Total Control Software. There is a whole software lesson here but basically I took a photo of one of the foxes on my lining fabric with my cell phone and imported it to my computer. I used the “Load Backdrop” tool to import the design into the work space in my Total Control software. I used that as a template to digitize on top of. I opened the “digitizing tools” icon and then selected the “complex fill stitch” icon. (the center icon) Choose the area you want to digitize, left click around it and right click 3 times and area will be filled. Sounds easy enough but you will need to practice a bit. Practice by drawing shapes on your screen by using the “Input Rectangle” tool. Click the arrow next to the tool and you can see options for drawing shapes on your screen. Have fun with it! Totally doable in Floriani Total Control!


2. You need to decide where you want to place your embroidery design. I placed mine on the edge of the front. You may also of course place it in the center of the front cover.


3. If you choose to place your design on the edge of the front cover, for the vertical center of the design area it is helpful to print a template from your software and use it to determine where you would like your design. It also depends on the size of your design. Keep in mind that you have to leave a 3/8” seam allowance on the front edge. I placed my design 3” from the raw edge of the front edge. You can find the horizontal center by folding the front cover in half widthwise and mark the center.


If you choose to place the design in the center of the front cover, you will need to take some measurements to determine the vertical center.


· Find the vertical center of the cover fabric. (where the spine of the binder would be) Fold cover fabric piece in half lengthwise. Mark the center.


· Measure the width of the spine. My binder has a 1 ½” spine. Divide that by 2 and add 1/8”. That would be 7/8” for my binder. This is where the binder would fold. Mark to the right of the previously marked back center mark 7/8”. I also marked to the left of the center just to illustrate where the spine would be. You don’t need to mark that. See photo


· Mark 3/8” from the front edge of the binder cover fabric. This is the seam allowance.


· Measure from the 7/8” mark to the seam allowance mark of the front edge of the binder. Mine measured 10 3/8”. Divide that by 2 to find the vertical center. I marked the vertical center at a little less than 5 ¼”.

10 3/8 doesn’t divide evenly so that’s why I marked a little less than 5 ¼”


· You can find the horizontal center by folding the front cover in half widthwise and mark the center.


4. Fuse a piece of Floriani No Show Mesh to the back of the area you will be embroidering.

5. Hoop a piece of Floriani Wet n Stick stabilizer. With a pencil, mark on the Wet n Stick stabilizer the vertical and horizontal centers using the marks on your hoop.

6. Slightly dampen the Wet n Stick and spread the water around until the stabilizer becomes sticky.

7. Using the marks on your cover fabric piece and the marks you made on the Wet n Stick, line up and stick the cover fabric piece to the Wet n Stick.

8. Slide a piece of tearaway below the hoop and place a piece of Floriani Heat n Gone on top of the hoop area.

9. Stitch out your embroidery design.

10. Tear away the Heat n Gone topper, the tearaway and the Wet n Stick. If the Wet n Stick is really stuck, just dampen the area again and it will tear off easily. Cut away excess the No Show Mesh.

11. Press the embroidered area from the back. Turnover and using the tip of your iron, remove the Heat n Gone Topper.

12. Press the Floriani Fusible Fleece to the back of the cover fabric.


Piping:

1. Attach a piping or zipper foot to your machine. Place the foot in the right position and the needle in a little less than left position. I moved my needle to somewhere between center and left position. This way the piping construction thread won’t show when you stitch the piping to the cover. Set your machine for a straight stitch and lengthen the stitch to a 4.

2. Thread your machine with sewing thread to coordinate with your piping.

· To make your own piping:

a. Bias Tape comes in a lot more colors than pre-made piping. I usually can find a color that coordinates with my project. This saves me from having to cut my own bias. Of course you can cut your own bias as well.

b. Open and press the Extra Wide Bias Tape flat. To get the creases out use a water bottle, dampen the bias tape and press out the water.

c. Place cording down the center of the bias tape and fold the bias tape over the cording matching raw edges of bias tape.

d. Place cording under pressure foot with cording on the left and raw edge of bias on the right.

e. Stitch along bias tape. The stitching will be a little to the right of the cording.





a. Using a piping cutter tool, (optional) cut the bias tape to a 3/8” seam allowance. If you like to make piping this tool is a must. The tool has a groove that the piping goes in to keep it in place while you’re cutting. The tool I have is no longer made but the link above in the supplies list will take you to where you can buy a tool that works as well. If you don’t have the tool cut the seam allowance with your scissors.











1. Leaving a 1” tail, begin stitching the piping at the center of the wide side of one of the long edges of the cover. At the corners, stop stitching the width of the flange on your piping from the corner and tie off your stitching. The flange on my piping is 3/8” and so I stop stitching 3/8” from the corner. See photo













Clip the flange of the piping at a 45 degree angle into the piping at the corner.Turn the piping around the corner and continue stitching.










5. To finish the end, turn the beginning tail away from the cover at a 45 degree angle. Turn the end of the piping away from the cover at a 45 degree angle as well and lay next to the beginning of the piping. Continue stitching about a ½” over the beginning of the piping through the cording. Trim tails to about a ½”.



Lining:

1. The cover fabric for this project was cut at 23”x12 ¾”.

2. Using the width measurement of the cover, divide it by 3. My binder cover fabric measures 23” divided by 3 which is 7.66. That’s a little tough to measure so we are going to round up to 8”. The lining is 3 separate sections. The end sections are the pockets for the front and back cover of the binder and the center section goes around the middle of the binder.

3. The height of the binder cover fabric is 12 ¾” for my binder. That will be the height we will cut for the lining.

4. On both pockets ends of the lining you will need to hem one long edge. Using a ¼” double fold hem for one edge, and adding a 3/8” seam allowance for the front edge, you will need to add 7/8” to the width of each of these pieces. For my binder we calculated a width of 8” above (step 2), add 7/8” and we will cut our pocket lining sections 8 7/8””x12 ¾”. Cut one for each pocket end.

5. The center section needs to be hemmed on both sides. With our 8” width calculation above and a ¼” double fold hem on each side we will add 1” once again to our width calculation. Cut the center lining piece 9”x12 ¾”.

6. Turn one long edge of each pocket end piece under about ¼” twice and stitch. Do the same for both sides of the center section.

7. Place the right sides of the lining sections on the right side of the cover. Center the center section of the lining on the previously marked center line of the cover and pin. Place the hemmed side of both pocket lining pieces next to the hemmed edges of the lining center section and pin. The pocket ends of the lining may be a little wide as we rounded up in our measurement in step 2 above.


8. Turn to the cover fabric side and trim excess pocket end lining.






9. Thread your machine with Standard Sewing thread that coordinates with the cover fabric.

10. Attach piping or zipper foot to your machine, in the right position and the needle in the far left position. Stitch from the lining fabric side. Stitch around the entire outside edge of the lining side. Stitch as close as you can to the piping.

11. Zig-zag around outside edge to finish the seam allowance. You will need to use the widest zig zag stitch you have as the pressure foot will want to push the seam allowance away from the stitching area because of the piping.

12. Clip all 4 corners at a 45 degree angle.

13. Turn the lining pieces and cover right sides out and push the corners out with the RNK Turning Tool.

14. Press around all edges.

Slip front and back covers of your binder into the end pocket pieces.











15 Minute Mouse Pad

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15 Minute Mouse Pad

Well, we all know that school is starting back! Whether you are doing online schooling at the comfort of your home, or you have a child going off to college, this is the perfect project for you!

The edges of this mouse pad can be finished using either your sewing machine or your serger. This will determine what thread you will use for edges. You can also choose to do a rectangular shape or circle mouse pad. Clarrisa will give you step-by-step instructions below!



Supplies:

· ¼ yard of cotton fabric

· 17”x width of fusible Stitch n Shape

· Thread to finish edges-

– For serger-One cone of decorative serger thread-I used wooly nylon. Two cones of

standard serger thread.

– For sewing machine-One spool of either standard sewing thread or one spool of Floriani

Embroidery thread

· Quilter’s Select Glue stick

· If using a sewing machine to finish edges-Two 11”x 11” pieces of Floriani Heat n Sta

stabilizer

· If using a sewing machine to finish edges- an applique stitching foot for your machine

· 90/14 Denim or Microtex Chrome needle

· Fray Block


Cutting:

For rectangular pad cut two pieces of Stitch n Shape 8”x 9 ½”. Cut one piece of fabric 8”x 9 ½”.


For circular pad find something to use as a template to trace a circle. I found a bowl in the kitchen or you can use a container, a lid or whatever you find that is about 8”-9” in diameter. Trace two circles onto the Stitch n Shape and cut out. Cut one piece of fabric the same size.


Prepare Stitch n Shape:

1. Using your Quilter’s Select glue stick, run a line of glue around the outside edge of one

piece of the Stitch n Shape on the non-fusible side.

2. With the fusible side down, place the other piece of Stitch n Shape on top of the glue

lining up the edges. The pieces should be non-fusible to fusible sides.

3. Fuse fabric to fusible side of Stitch n Shape piece.

If using a sewing machine to finish edges-fuse two pieces, one on top of the other, of

Floriani Heat n Sta to back of the fabric/Heat n Sta piece.Use a Teflon pressing sheet on

the ironing surface when fusing to keep fusible from sticking to ironing surface where

exposed.


Outside edge stitching:

For sewing machine,

1. Wind a bobbin and thread your machine with either the standard sewing thread or the

embroidery thread.

2. Attach Applique stitching foot to your machine and a 90/14 Denim or Microtex Chrome

needle.

3. If your machine has built in applique stitches, select a wide satin applique stitch. If your

machine does not have a built in satin stitch, select a wide zig-zag and decrease the stitch

length to about a 1. The stitches need to be close together.

4. Experiment- Using scraps of the Heat n Sta and your fabric, make a small piece of the

Heat n Sta/fabric/stabilizer “sandwich” using the above steps. Place edge of the

“sandwich” under the pressure foot with the right side of the stitch stitching off the edge.

Using a medium speed, stitch around the entire edge of your sample piece adjusting if

necessary. If your stitching is too sparse you may need to decrease your stitch length and

conversely if the stitching is too dense and not moving forward you will need to lengthen

your stitch. Keep in mind that you can’t put any pull on the “sandwich” while you’re

stitching and you may have to give it a little push to keep it moving along. When turning

corners, stitch off the end, turn and back up stitching to beginning of corner stitching over

the end of previous stitching.

5. Using settings from above experiment, stitch around the edges of either your rectangle

piece or your circle.

6. Use a drop of Fray block on all corners and ends.

For Serger,

1. Set your serger for a 3 thread wide overlock.

2. Place your decorative serger thread in the upper looper and standard serger thread in the

left needle and lower looper.

3. Adjust your stitch length to about a 1. You may have to adjust this depending on your

thread. Once again you may want to experiment.

4. Stitch around entire edge of either your circle or rectangle. Using a blunt needle, thread

tail end threads back through previous stitching.

5. Use a drop of Fray Block on all corners and ends.




Sweet Dreams from RNK Giveaway with Shannon Fabrics

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Sweet Dreams from RNK Giveaway with Shannon Fabrics

We all loved the blog about Casey Renee Cosplay‘s Elsa Costume right? Well, what if we told you Shannon Fabrics, the fabric distributor that Casey used for her costume, is ready to give away some amazing Cuddle Kits?! Don’t sew? That’s okay! RNK Distributing is giving away 25 Golden Back Frozen 2 Books! Don’t forget we have Casey Renee Cosplay as Elsa, for our special guest on Sweet Dreams from RNK tonight at 7 PM EDT. Rules to enter the giveaway below.

RULES TO ENTER THE GIVEAWAY:

· On Instagram:

1. Like this post

2. Follow @ShannonFabrics, @rnk_cosplay and @caseyreneecosplay

3. Tag a friend

4. Complete the registration below:


· On Facebook:

1. Like this post

2. Follow Shannon Fabrics, RNK Cosplay (@RNKCosplayCafe), and

Casey Renee Cosplay

3. Share the post!

4. Complete the registration below:







Made with Love

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Made with Love

Have you ever had the opportunity to make something with love? How about making it with the people you love? Here’s a fun story and #diy on making a quilt for Hope’s nephew with love.

“I just spent a wonderful week at home on a “stay-cation” with my family. My husband’s brother and his family were visiting from PA. During dinner my sister-in-law mentioned she wanted to make her first quilt for Nathan, my nephew, who would hopefully be returning to college for his second year. She told me they purchased a quilt last year for him to use and that it fell apart after he washed it. My ears perked up because, I LOVE to QUILT! Immediately I volunteered to help her make a new quilt for my nephew. Here are some quick ideas so you can make an easy whole-cloth quilt using 45” wide cotton fabric.”


College Quilt Hack Idea:


Instead of using 45” wide fabric as described below you could use a recycled twin flat sheet. Just trim off the hemmed edges and use that for the quilt top. Or, follow the tips below to use quilting cotton fabric.

To figure the yardage for the top of the quilt using 45” wide fabric use the same method for piecing together the backing fabric. We were making a “Twin XL” quilt and purchased 5.5 yards of fabric for the top.


  • Measure down 96” and make a cut across the fabric. Remove the selvage.

  • Sub-cut the 96” x 45” length of fabric into 96” x 34”.

  • Measure down a second length of 96” of remaining fabric and make a cut across the fabric. Remove the selvage.

  • Sub-cut the 96” x 45 length of fabric into two panels measuring 96” x 19”.


Sew the three units together using a ¼” seam allowance. Press the seams open.


Quilt as desired using Quilter’s Select thread and bobbins.


Cut the binding fabric using Quilter’s Select rotary cutting mats and rulers and bind as desired using your favorite method to bind.


Helpful Hints From Hope: “Please watch the video to see how I form my miters using Wonder Clips and glue. The real hack here is using a Quilter’s Select Glue Stick to turn the binding under forming perfect miters. I do this on all four corners before I stitch-in-the ditch. I Love using this method because it takes the stress out of binding and my miter’s look great on the back and on the front of the quilt.”


Insulated Lunch Bag

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Insulated Lunch Bag

Updated: Jul 30, 2020

We are kicking off 1 of 2 weeks filled with School related projects! We know that school may look or be a little different this year for you, your kiddos, or your grandchildren, but we are here to spread a little joy to get your creative juices flowing!

Clarrisa made this amazing insulated lunch bag. Follow her step-by-step instructions below, or download your printable PDF!



Supplies:

  • ½ Yard 45” fabric for outer bag

  • ½ Yard 45” fabric for lining

  • 1 Yard 1” wide webbing for handles

  • 2 pieces of RNK Sew Fab Foam- 13”x15”

  • 2 pieces of RNK Hot n Cold Barrier Fleece- 13”x15”

  • 9” of 5/8” wide Velcro

  • Standard Sewing thread to coordinate with outer bag and lining- I used white for both

  • An embroidery design for front- about 4”x4”. I used a design found on Etsy from the “EmbroideryEasy” shop. Here is the link to the shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/EmbroideryEasy?ref=shop_sugg&search_query=sandwich

  • Floriani Embroidery thread for your design.

  • Fabric Marker

  • 2 pieces of Floriani Heat n Sta tearaway stabilizer 10”x13”

  • A piece of Floriani Water Soluble topper to cover your embroidery design.

Cutting:

  • From outer bag fabric cut 2 pieces 13”x15”

  • From lining fabric cut 2 pieces 12 ¾”x14 ¾”

  • From RNK Sew Fab Foam cut 2 pieces 13”x15”

  • From RNK Heat n Cold fleece cut 2 pieces 13”x15”

  • From 1” webbing cut 2 pieces 16” long


Embroidery:

  • On one piece of the outer bag fabric, mark the vertical center. The 15” direction is the left and right side of the bag. The vertical center would be 7 ½” from each side. Mark down from one long side 5 ½”. The edge you measured from is the top. This is where the embroidery will be centered

  • Prepare your embroidery design. Add any lettering as desired.

  • Fold and crease on the vertical and horizontal lines you marked previously. From the backside, center one piece of the Heat n Sta over the creased lines and fuse to the back.

  • Hoop using the marks on your hoop to line up with the marks on your fabric. Remember that the 5 ½” marked space is the top of the bag.

  • Slide the other piece of Heat n Sta under the hoop before you begin embroidering and lay a piece of water soluble topper on top.

  • Embroider your design.

  • Remove water soluble topping and tearaway the Heat n Sta.

  • Press your embroidery design from the back side. When pressing from the front use a pressing cloth.

Bag Preparation:

  • From the fabric side, press the RNK Sew Fab Foam to the backside of both pieces of the outer bag fabric.

  • From each bottom corner mark a square 2 ¼”x2 ¼”. Cut out the square from each corner.

  • On each side and the bottom mark 2 ½” from the 3 edges of both pieces. Not the top.

  • Top stitch on the 2 ½” lines on both pieces.

  • Measure and make a small mark 2” from the stitched lines, into the center, on the top for placement of the handles. Mark from both sides and place each end of the handle inside the marks. Make sure to not twist the handles. Baste the handles to the bag with a ¼” seam.

  • Place both outer bag pieces right sides together matching sides and bottom. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch both sides and the bottom of the bag together. Press side seams open.

  • In the bottom corners, where the square is cut out, fold the side seam to match the bottom seam. Pin together and stitch using a ½” seam allowance. Trim seam allowance to ¼”.

Bag Lining:

  • Repeat the following for both pieces. Place the lining fabric on top of the Heat n Cold Barrier Fleece. The Fabric will be slightly smaller as it was cut smaller. It was cut smaller to accommodate the thickness of the foam and fleece. Adjust the fabric to fit the fleece pin and baste ¼” around all edges.

  • Mark the following on both pieces:

  • Quilt the Hot n Cold barrier fleece to the lining on the marked lines.

  • 2 ½” from one long side, 3 ½” from previous mark and 3 ½” again from previous mark. Mark 5” from each side.

  • The 2 ½” marked edge is the bottom. Measure a 2 ¼” square in each bottom corner the same as the outer bag and cut out the square.

  • Place both lining pieces right sides together and using a 5/8” seam allowance stitch ONE SIDE and the bottom. On the other side, stitch leaving a 6” opening for turning the bag.

  • Press the side seams and bottom seam open. Press under the 5/8” seam allowances on both sides of the opening.

  • Fold the corners the same as the outer bag and stitch the corners using a 5/8” seam allowance. Trim the seam allowance to ¼”.

  • Turn the lining right sides out.

Bag Construction:


  • Place lining inside the outer bag. Right sides should be together. Keeping the handles down inside the bag, align the top edge and pin together. Using a ½” seam allowance, stitch around entire top edge. It would be handy to use your free arm on your machine for this.

  • Turn the bag right sides out through the hole in the lining. Poke out the corners on the lining and the bag.

  • Fold the opening in the lining, pressed edges together and using a very narrow seam, stitch the opening closed.

  • Push lining into bag and press the seam flat on the top edge. Top stitch ¼” around the top using the free arm on your machine again.

  • Place Velcro on top centered between the two stitched lines. Stitch the top edge of one piece of Velcro and down one short side. It will be easiest to stitch the second side by starting again at the same end you began so you won’t have to turn the bag around.






Queen Elsa Costume

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Queen Elsa Costume

Updated: Jul 31, 2020

Whether you are a sewer, quilter, seamstress, or embroiderer, you will fall in love with this one of a kind costume made by Casey Renee Cosplay (@caseyreneecosplay).

First let’s talk supplies for this project:

“I have a million or so feelings about this dress, it just further reminded me why I prefer making things with corsets and hoops and petticoats galore. At least I stuck to it despite trying to give up a few dozen times….I love the embroidery I made for this costume, it’s probably my favorite part and also happens to be the part I was most terrified of going into this project. I used Mylar from Embellish to give it that sparkle paired with Floriani Embroidery thread “Lamp Light” PF0850 stitched out on my Janome Sewing Machines MB7 I learned so much and honestly am beginning to fall in love with machine embroidery.”


So, we thought we would share the beautifully-amazing journey of Casey creating her stunning costume! Follow the story below!


“Yesterday I spent the day playing with the embroidery on Spirit Elsa, pardon the purple thread I ran out of white and I didn’t want to waste my actual satin that I’ll be using for the runes so I stitched out on white. The Mylar works so well with the snowflake and the details I want to do on the bodice. For the actual dress I’ll be using silky satin by @shannonfabrics I’ll be sharing the official fabric later this week. @florianiembroidery thread paired with @embellish.rnk Mylar for the bodice embroidery details…”


Follow the video for the official embroidery tutorial:

Then, of course, she created her own patterns! You can purchase the patterns at the following link and watch the video below to learn her magical ways of imagining the Elsa dress in the making! Buy the patterns here!

Next, was the part where we truly started fan-girling, the bodice! The details and passion that Casey put into this project is honestly, unreal. But, it helped us see her creation in the making! The embroidery was done on Shannon Fabrics Silky Satin and Embellish‘s Mylar for that gorgeous sparkle on her Janome machines. Here is a slideshow of her step-by-step process embroidering the bodice.

You can also view the tutorial here:




Now this next part, may be my favorite part.. Why? Because it’s so creative! We love seeing when creative people take it one step further and “play” with new techniques that either do or do not involve sewing. This technique didn’t involve sewing, but it did involve dip dye!


“Elsa skirt dip dye! I’m back to working on projects today after a nice 3 day break (who even am I?!?) and I’m super hype to get Elsa finished this week!”





Now, I am sure you want to know how to make that skirt, right? Shannon Fabrics played a big part in the skirt. As you well know, when creating a project so intricate as an Elsa costume, it becomes like a recipe. You must have all the right components for it to have the best result! Shannon Fabrics Silky Satin was that perfect cherry on top of this costume as it gave a particular elegance to the final product.



Finally, the first real-deal-reveal that had our jaws dropping! Casey had the office of RNK raving about the detailed work that she put into this. There is not a doubt that she put her heart and soul into the making of Queen Elsa’s dress.


Take a look at the arms of the bodice. See those little gorgeous rhinestones leading up to the embroidered snowflake? Now imagine single-handily placing those rhinestones… Casey, we applaud you for this portion of the project alone. Can you spot the other intricate placements of rhinestones from this close-up shot? Amazing, right?! Can we all agree that Casey is a Queen of crafting in real life?




I guess you could say that we are rating this a 300/10 project! Sewing, Embroidery, Embellishing, Quilting, and Creating your own one-of-a-kind projects is something extraordinary. We are so grateful to experience this journey with Casey! See the final project photos below, and catch Casey Renee Cosplay on a special edition of Sweet Dreams from RNK on Thursday, July 30th, at 7 PM EDT.

Disclaimer: All photos and videos in this blog were taken and belong to @caseyreneecosplay



School Crest Mask

Posted on , updated on by Web Dev

School Crest Mask

If you, your children, or your grandchildren are given the ability to go back to school this fall, they probably have a mask mandate, right? Well, Trevor has created a fun way to be patriotic for your school and be stylish too!

Follow the video below for a tutorial on how to make your school crest via FTCU and see the information below for a generic crest that you can make in the comfort of your home!

For .jef, .pes, .vp3, or .waf files of the crest, please email us at wix@rnkdistributing.com


Getting Wedding Day Ready!

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Getting Wedding Day Ready!

Ready for another giveaway?! Well, we have one right here!


We thought about how we could make a few wedding vinyl projects, and then decided that Sydney, who has NEVER even made anything out of vinyl will learn to do it! So if she can do it, so can you!


The first project is the guest “book” sign that you see above. This was a simple board from Hobby Lobby that originally was $23.99, but of course we used a 40% in store coupon! Then, using the Sew Much Cosplay Power Shine Black Glitter Foil, we cut out the design in the free SVG below! Finally, we took an iron and simply gave it some TLC. This project has to be a cool peel. And… Voila! Your guest book is complete!


FREE Forever and Always SVG:

https://static.wixstatic.com/shapes/5edfbf_b8ba331ffbfb4b54a3d95c93ab9c69bd.svg


Next was this super fun box for Future Brides to ask their besties to be a part of the bridal party!


In this box, we did a “Will you be my Matron of Honor?”, which features a cute little mug, colored pens to organize the wedding day planner, chocolate stirring spoons (which honestly we’d eat plain, no regrets), an adorable towel that says “Happy Wife Happy Life”, and some sharpies to sign the guest book!


This project was fun! We got a box from TJMaxx for $6.99, used our Sew Much Cosplay Power Shine Foil in Gold, and an iron! Then we did a cold peel, and filled it with all the goodies! Free SVG Below with different variations:



https://static.wixstatic.com/shapes/5edfbf_b14ee97c80cd4230857a656cfb3815a8.svg


Finally, we attempted the beautiful hangers that you see on Pinterest!

Honestly, for someone who has never applied vinyl before.. these were hard. The vinyls were very small and intricate which made it difficult to line up and peel during the process. We attempted to make a full suit of hangers with bridesmaids, groomsmen…etc. But, because this was trial and error the Bride and Groom hangers turned out the best!


Using wooden hangers, Silver Sew Much Cosplay Power Shine Foil, and an iron, we were very careful trying not to melt the vinyl so quickly. If you want to make your own, follow the link below for your FREE SVG’s:


https://static.wixstatic.com/shapes/5edfbf_84cf443d804d42638dae0374f5241e15.svg



The final project that we made just for fun was an embellish bridesmaid bag. It was $5.99 at TJMaxx, we used Swarovski Crystals that were Blue and Clear, the RNK Heat Tool to place them, and followed their original printed design. It took about an hour to finish after we got the rhythm down pat! But, definitely a fun project!




Want to win all 3 of these amazing vinyl projects? What about an additional Embellished Bag? Like, Comment, and Share the Facebook post to be entered to win! Videos on how we made these Below!







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