DIY Mask

DIY Mask

Updated: Jun 8

Ready to create your own mask? Join Kathi Quinn, a Floriani Educator, as she teaches you how to make your own mask at home! Create with RNK also has two bundles you can buy to create your personal mask! One of the bundles is medical grade, and the other is for personal use.



You can also view the slideshow of instructions here: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1xLmOH7oyZK8MkFWZebIVJK5wbIU__1dk/view


What you’ll need:

WASH ALL FABRICS BEFORE MAKING MASK

2) 9”x10” 100% cotton fabric with Dream Weave Ultra fused to back

1) 9” x 10” No Show Mesh

2) 1/8” x 7 ½” elastic (or 7 ½” corded elastic)

Wet N Gone Tacky Tape

½” Stitch Perfection Tape

1) Stitch N Wash Stabilizer or Tear Away Medium Stabilizer to fit
largest Hoop




DIY Dino Days

DIY Dino Days

Updated: Jun 8

Kim shows us how to take a 20 year old dinosaur pattern and turn it into a modern and beautiful project for your kiddos or grandkids!



Quarantine Craft – Spud Muffin Paper Dolls

Quarantine Craft – Spud Muffin Paper Dolls

Updated: Jun 8

Are your bored but know you need a craft to make today? Maybe you’re stuck in quarantine and you have Craft N Cut Software! Well, Kim has created a project perfect for your kiddos or grandkids! The Spud Muffin Paper Dolls! It’s simple! Use our Mr. Spud Muffin CD Design and our software and you have perfect paper dolls for that “boring” quarantine day!



Make a Scrub Hat for your Healthcare Friends!

Make a Scrub Hat for your Healthcare Friends!

Updated: Jun 8

Laura, our Floriani Educator, has given an amazing tutorial on how to make DIY Scrub Hats for your Healthcare Friends! Follow along below..

Supplies needed:
1 pc 11 ¾” circle
1 pc 10 ½ x 30 Strip for band of hat
1 pc 1” wide by width of fabric for tie


Step 1: On 10 ½” x 30” band fabric, fold in quarters so all four corners are lined up. Mark 1” in on the 30” side and 2 inches down on the 10 ½” side and draw a line connect the marks. Cut on the lie through all four layers.


Step 2: Place band right sides together and sew seam at ½” allong 10 ½” cut edge. Press the
seam to one side and top stitch the seam down to the band. Clip the fabric at the turn points
so the seam lays flat.


Step 3: Fold fabric circle in half and mark ½ points on opposite sides.
On the back of the hat, create three ½” pleats going away from the center on both sides.
There is no need to measure these, if necessary, you will make the pleats slightly deeper or
shallower to fit the band in the next step.


Step 4: With all six pleats pinned in place, fold the band in half to find center front to the back seam. Begin pinning the top of the hat at the center from working back toward the center back seam. Adjust pleats as necessary to fit to the center back seam. Repeat from the center front to the back seam on the other side of the hat top.


Step 5: Using a 3/8” to ½” seam allowance stitch cap top to the band, back tacking at both the beginning and the end. Seam allowance just needs to be the same all the way around. Press the seam allowance toward the band.


Step 6: on 1” strip of fabric, press both long raw edges to the center of the strip. Hint: Stitch Perfection Tape, which is a double side stick wash away tape that is needle friendly will hold your edges to the center. If you look closely at the picture you can see the stitch perfection tape running down the center of the strip, no need to burn your fingers with steam at the iron. Press the strip wrong sides together, to encase all raw edges. Sew a straight stitch close the edge of the strip to close. Hint: Because there is not much fabric against the feed dogs sometimes the strip does not want to start feeding under the foot. Place a piece of Floriani tearaway or Quilters Select tearaway at the beginning of the strip and it will feed in right from the start. Just simply tear away the stabilizer when the seam is complete.



Step 7: Flip up and press the seam on the bottom of the hand band approximately 3/8” to ½”. After the hem is pressed up, carefully line up the back seam and press in the bottom band fold, by matching the upper seam to the bottom fold. Pin out 5” from either side for
placement of your button hold in the next step.


Step 8: From the center back seam measure out five inches and place a mark for where your
buttonhole goes. On my sample the button holes are on the inside of the band against the
head, because that was what my friend requested. It helps to keep the “straps” out of the
way. With a square of Floriani Nylon Fusible Mesh, press where the button hole is going to
support the fabric. Hint: You can just make out a yellow headed pin at the five inch mark. If
you place the pin on the outside of the hat band you can see where to press you Floriani Nylon Mesh without using any marking pen and line up your buttonhole as well.


Step 9: Create a ½” buttonhole (or there abouts) at both 5” markings. Using a seam ripper,
open your button holes. Hint: To open your buttonholes, place a straight pin across the ends
to prevent cutting through the ends of the button hole with your seam ripper.



Step 10: Bring the botton edge of the band up to match the circular stitch line that attached
the top to the band. Moving around the hat press the bottom edge in place making sure the
band does not start to “get twisted” because you are pulling to tight. Now pin the band in
place. It helps to use a pin every inch or so.
Once it is pinned in place, sew very close to the folded hem, enclosing the seam that attached the band to the hat. I like to use a longer stitch length of 2.8 to 3.0. This will make any easing that needs to be done work out better. HINT: Remember if you have a little pleat in the band, its on the inside so no one will ever see it. You want to make sure the fold is even with the hat seam and the band stays straight. You can simply use your seam ripper and slightly push the band fullness in towards the foot while you are sewing and the “fullness” eases in.


Step 11: Using a straight stitch or decorative one if you would like, place a row of stitching just higher than the button holes, creating a casing for the draw cord. Although it is not necessary I like to use a row of straight stitches on both sides of the buttonhole.


Step 12: Using a safety pin, a bodkin etch, feed the draw cord through the back of the hat going in one buttonhole and out the other. Hint: If you have a small circular knitting needle it worked great! Once the draw cord is in place, put a knot on both ends to prevent it from pulling out from the casing.


Your scrub hat is complete and ready for donation. There have been some requests to sew a button onto both sides of the hat for elastic bands from face masks to attach to. I just do not know where to suggest they get placed so it is not included in these directions.


If you blow in you can notice that the one surgeon just has her mask on the outside of the scrub hate and around her ears, no button necessary for her!



Make a Hexi Quilt with Debbie Denny!

Make a Hexi Quilt with Debbie Denny!

Updated: Jun 8


Debbie is excited to show you the Hexi Wall-hanging (Doll Baby Quilt), she made for her Granddaughter, Evie. First she has to give credit for the idea and the Hexi’s to her very talented friend, Ashley Dell. Ashley made a quilt, using this technique that Debbie fell in love with. Her Hexi’s were placed randomly on the quilt. Debbie’s random placement kept turning into flowers, so I just went with it.



Watch the video with this link!


https://youtu.be/dZkKcMxFrd8


Here’s how to make it!

I’m excited to show you the Hexi Wall-hanging (Doll Baby Quilt), I made for my Granddaughter, Evie. First I have to give credit for the idea and the Hexi’s to my very talented friend, Ashley Dell. Ashley made a quilt, using this technique that I fell in love with. Her Hexi’s were placed randomly on the quilt. My random placement kept turning into flowers, so I just went with it.

1. You need to decide on the finished size you want your Hexi’s and cut your QUILTERS SELECT PRINT & PIECE FUSE LITE to that size using your AccuQuilt Cutter or your Digital Cutter (Scan N Cut, Cameo, Etc.)

2. Cut your Hexi fabric ½” larger than the Print and Piece Fuse.

3. Cut top fabric to preferred size.

4. Cut backing 3” larger than top on all four sides.

5. Fuse Print & Piece Fuse Lite Hexi to the Center of the Hexi Fabric.

6. Using QUILTERS SELECT GLUE STICK, fold all sides in.

7. Place Hexi’s on top fabric randomly or in a pattern. When satisfied with placement, use Glue Stick to temporarily adhere Hexi to top fabric.

8. Sprinkle QUILTERS SELECT FREE FUSE on RNK EMBROIDERY BATTING. Place fabric with Hexi’s over the batting. Fuse top to batting by pressing for 4 seconds on a wool setting.

9. Repeat for backing, centering top and batting over back fabric.

10. Thread machine with QUILTERS SELECT INVISIBLE THEAD and QUILTERS SELECT 80 WT. BOBBIN THREAD.

11. Place strip of RNK EMBROIDERY PERFECTION TAPE down the center of the quilt for a straight edge. Using edge of tape, stitch from top to bottom of quilt. Flip quilt over and continue stitching using previous stitch and edge of foot as a guide.

12. When you have finished channel quilting, trim backing fabric leaving 2” on all sides.

13. Fold backing in 1” on long sides and place a piece of STITCH PERFECTION TAPE along the fold.

14. Remove the protective paper from the Stitch Perfection Tape and fold over to the top of the quilt, forming a binding.

15. Stitch binding down using a blanket stitch or decorative stich of choice.

16. Stitch Hexi’s in place, using a blanket stitch if you’d like.


Make a Hand Sanitizer Holder

Make a Hand Sanitizer Holder

Updated: Jun 8

Nourish your hands, keep them clean, create with your hands, and sewing is a dream!

Follow the link below for how to make your own hand sanitizer holder!


Please follow the link for the video:

https://youtu.be/aP3DQWSq-G4


The instructions for this fun project are listed in the video!

Multi-Purpose Little Bag

Multi-Purpose Little Bag

Updated: Jun 8

Debbie Homer demonstrates how to make a perfect Multi-Purpose Little Bag! Join us on Facebook to see the video on how to make a bag to hold your credit card, phone, Lysol wipes, and attach your hand sanitizer, too!


Want to know how to make it? Watch the video below for the little bag!

https://youtu.be/WiwXFaH8ZjU


Want to make the sanitizer holder? Here’s the video for that too!

https://youtu.be/aP3DQWSq-G4



Supply list

(1) 2” x 8” Fabric (top of zipper panel)

(1) 2” x 8” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 2” x 8” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 8” Fabric (lower panel of zipper)

(1) 8” x 8” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 8” x 8” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 9” Fabric (back)

(1) 8” x 9” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 8” x 9” fabric piece

(1) 8” x 8” Fabric (cell phone pocket)

(1) 4” x 4” Sew Fab Foam – fuse to have of 8” x 8” fabric

(1) 5” x 6” Fabric (credit card pocket)

(1) 5” x 6” Dream Weave Ultra – fuse to 5” x 6” fabric

(1) 2” x 36” Fabric (handle)

(1) 9” zipper

(2) rings

Instructions

Fuse all Dream Weave and Sew Fab Foam pieces to wrong side of fabric.

Sew right side of zipper to right side of top panel fabric using zipper foot.

Sew other side of zipper right side to right side of bottom panel Fabric

Press along fabric and zipper edge making it lay flat

Topstitch on each edge of and fabric.

Fold credit card pocket in half so it now measures 2 ½ x 6”, sew across the top edge right sides together the 2 ½ “ edge ¼” seam allowance, turn and press.

Topstitch across the 2 ½” edge, place in corner of front fabric matching raw edges, pin into place, sew down the 6” edge of where the fabric was folded, leaving raw edges pinned.

Fold Cell phone pocket in half right side of fabric on outside, topstitch across the folded edge.

Place cell phone pocket onto back fabric on lower bottom, pin into place.

Take 2” x 36” handle piece, I would measure yourself first to see if that is long enough to do cross body or shoulder strap.

Run thru bias tape maker then fold in half and press, sew down each edge and down the center.

Cut off 5” and then cut the 5” piece in half this is your straps for your rings.

Place each 2 ½” strip into each ring fold fabric piece in half and pin on each one.

Place onto front bag ½” in from each side and pin.

Place bag front and back bag piece right sides together and pin into place.

OPEN ZIPPER TO MIDDLE

Don’t forget to open zipper, sew around all edges width of foot back tac over zipper on each side to reinforce.

Open zipper the rest of the way and turn right side out and press.

Place handle strip into each ring and sew across edge.

Clarrisa’s Corner June 22

Clarrisa’s Corner June 22


This week on Clarrisa’s Corner, join Clarrisa Gossett as she walks us through creating these fun placemats!



Tutorial: Fabric Tray

Tutorial: Fabric Tray

Updated: Jun 16


Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and today’s project is made with two squares of fabric and a special interlining material that gives it structure. This simple fabric tray is easy to sew and can be used to hold jewelry, bath items, loose change and almost any small items that need a home. I’m using mine to corral my favorite fabric paints that I use to embellish fabric and projects.


Supplies

Outer fabric: 11” square of quilting cotton

Inner fabric: 11” square of quilting cotton

10” square of Dec-Magic Fusible Non-Woven Interfacing

Open Embroidery Foot

Select Self Erase Marker

RNK Precision Turning Tool


Deco-Magic

The secret to the shape of this tray is the interlining material that gives it body and shape. This unique leather- like product is flexible and makes it easy to shape your fabric into projects such as purses, belts, hats, fabric boxes, etc. The fusible adhesive on Deco-Magic creates a permanent bond to the fabric and is needle friendly so you can stitch through it to embellish your fabric if desired.




Place the Deco-Magic square in the center of the wrong side of the outer fabric. You should have a ½” seam allowance extending beyond the Deco-Magic on all four sides. Tip: Cut your inner and outer fabric squares slightly larger than 11” and once you fuse the Deco-Magic in place, you can trim the excess fabric edges away, leaving a precise ½” extending beyond the Deco-Magic. There are two weights of Deco-Magic, I used the heavier one (still flexible) but if you need something a bit softer, try Deco-Magic Lite.




Stitching the Fabrics


Place the inner fabric with right sides together to the fused outer fabric. Stitch along all four sides, just out the Deco-Magic square. Leave a 5”-6” opening along one side. Tip: Place the edge of the Deco-Magic next to the inside toe of the presser foot. Move the needle position to the far right. The needle will drop on the fabric, making it easy to stitch along the edges of the interlining.



Turning the fabric


Trim each corner to reduce the bulk. Turn the fabric to the right side. It may seem a bit stiff but just turn it until it is right out.



Square Corners

I used the RNK Point Turner to push out the corners to make them square. The small round ball on the end lets you get into the point of the corner without punching through the fabric.




Edgestitching


Once the fabric is right side out, edgestitch along all four sides, closing the opening in the process. Guide the fabric in the same way as you did when stitching the fabric pieces together, using the inside toe of the foot as a guide.


Marking


Measure 1 ½” from one side and draw a line using a fabric marker. Repeat for the remaining three sides. I used the Quilters Select Self-Erase Marker. It is air-soluble and will fade in 1-2 days.



Stitching the Base

Fold one side to the toward the inner fabric along the marked line. Edgestitch the fold, starting 1 ½” from the outer edge of the fabric (the marked line) and stopping 1 ½” from the opposite edge (the marked line). Repeat for the remaining three sides.






Stitching the Corners

Fold one corner flat to form a point (as shown in the photo above), matching the marked lines. Stitch straight down (this will be along the marked line on the inner fabric) to the corner of the base. Repeat with the remaining three corners.


Optional Corner Finish

You can leave the tray as is with the extending triangle at each corner. I chose to flatten the triangles, pushing them to the corner of the tray, using fabric glue to hold them in place.






Embroidery Stabilizers for Beginners

Embroidery Stabilizers for Beginners

Hi, I’m Susan from Sewfeet.com and today we’re talking about stabilizer basics. Embroidery stabilizers are a key element in machine embroidery. They provide a firm foundation that can support the thread that is used to create the design being stitched. Without them, the fabric would be puckered around the design once it is un-hooped, and the stabilizer is removed. I’m going to start with my three go-to stabilizers that are good to always have on hand. Here are three stabilizers I use on a regular basis. I have other stabilizers that are more specialized for specific embroidery situations, but these are my every day, mainstream, often-used stabilizers that I make sure that I am never without. These three stabilizers are great to start with if you are new to machine embroidery.


Embellish Soft Cutaway


Most cutaway stabilizers are stiff with a lot of body. This may be useful if you need some structure in your project. But there are times when I want the support of a cutaway but without the stiffness and this soft cutaway is perfect for that. It is very stable with no stretch in any direction. After stitching, trim away the stabilizer, leaving about ¼” around the design. The rest of the stabilizer remains behind the stitched design.


Floriani Medium Tearaway


I like this stabilizer because it works for most projects that need a tearaway stabilizer. Crisp, but not stiff, it tears easily and cleanly away from the stitching. Tearaway is similar to cutaway but is more paper-like and tears easily. If using more than one layer of tearaway, it is best to remove the layers one at a time.


Floriani Water Soluble Topping


A great stabilizer to use when you are stitching terrycloth, velvet, or other textured fabrics. An easy way to keep this in place on top of your hooped fabric is to wet the corners of the topping and then stick them to the fabric in the hoop. Typically, toppings are a film or mesh that dissolves with water. After stitching, trim the excess stabilizer from around the design and then rinse the project until the stabilizer completely is dissolved.


Six Embroidery Stabilizer Facts and Tips

Before the home embroidery machine came about, stabilizers were used by commercial embroiderers. They were called backings because the majority of stabilizers are placed on the back of the fabric. The term used by the home machine embroidery industry is stabilizer.

Determining the type of stabilizer and the amount your project requires takes some testing using your project fabric with a variety of stabilizers until you find the stabilizer for that works best for your project. The more you work with stabilizers, the more intuitive it becomes.

The only hard and fast stabilizer rule is that knit fabrics, including t-shirts and sweatshirts, require cutaway stabilizers. It provides a very stable foundation for stitching. Woven fabric may use a variety of stabilizer types, depending on the fabric and the project.


Use commercial quality stabilizers made by reputable embroidery companies. These stabilizers contain silicone, which lubricates the needle as you sew, reducing the wear and tear on the needle and the machine. Substitutes such as paper, coffee filters, freezer paper, etc. are not recommended as they may contain other materials such as cellulose (wood pulp) that can be harmful to your machine.



When stitching a fabric that has a nap or pile to it such as velvet, terry cloth, or corduroy, you will need the stabilizer behind the fabric plus an additional stabilizer on the surface of the fabric. Called a topping, this stabilizer keeps the stitches from sinking into the loops of the fabric. These work with fabrics that can handle moisture and dampness because toppings are water soluble so they can be completely removed after your stitching is complete.

The last five tips have been referring to using stabilizers for machine embroidery, but another use is with your sewing machine for decorative stitching. It keeps your fabric nice and flat with no puckering or tunneling as you stitch. It goes behind the fabric, the same as for embroidery and can be removed by tearing or cutting it away, depending on they type you are using.